Onion & Shallot Marmalade

Onions, when cooked over a very low heat for quite a long time, can be quite a sweet and comforting food.

The first time I tried to make a slow cooked onion spread, about 14 years ago, I burned it all up. It hadn't occurred to me that there was a lot of sugar in the onion that would be released as it cooked. Sadly, I threw away my first burnt attempt and tried again. After about four tries, I got it right, and have been making this ever since.

This time, I decided to add a shallot and some minced garlic. The flavors get really mellow as they cook down, meld with the olive oil, and give you a dish that tastes like it belongs in Provence. The flavors are sweet and savory all at once, which is my favorite combination.

This marmalade is super easy to make and can be used for a number of things: incorporated into a cooked veggie or meat dish (recipe to come later this week); as a topping for baked potatoes; a spread for toast or added to an egg scramble.

Onion & Shallot Marmalade

Ingredients:

  • 1 large Yellow Onion, chopped into small, even pieces
  • 1 medium Shallot, chopped into small even, pieces
  • 3 cloves Garlic, minced
  • 3/4 cup Olive Oil
  • 1/4 tsp Salt
  • 1/4 tsp Black Pepper

Method:

  • Heat up a small saucepan over medium to high heat.
  • Once pan is heated up, add olive oil.
  • Put the onions, shallots, garlic, salt and pepper into the hot oil.
  • Allow to stay on high heat for about 3 minutes, until the edges of the oil bubble.
  • Stir the mixture and lower the heat to low.
  • Keep on the low flame for up to an hour, stirring constantly.
  • You'll know when it's ready when you see the onions slightly sticking together and looking nice and browned.

Serve on toast, baked potatoes or use as part of a meat or veggie roast.

Flowers on the Corner

We walked out our front door the other day to find a very nice surprise awaiting us.

A lovely flower stand had popped up on our corner.

The florist, Bloom Boom, (now Fig & Twine) owned by Shaelyn Thomson and LeAnn Raschke, will be popping up around town until they get a more permanent spot.

For now, do get in touch with them  so they can create beautiful arrangements for you.

Visit their Facebook Page or drop them a line via email: shae.thomson@gmail.com

Update: Bloom Boom is now Fig & Twine. You can find them here.

Happy Friday!

Cookbook Review: Bi-Rite Market's Eat Good Food

Remember how my friend got me a quail to roast for my birthday a few weeks ago? Well, that same friend got me a great cookbook for Christmas, too.

The book,  Bi-Rite Market's Eat Good Food, by Sam Mogannam and Dabney Gough, with photographs by France Ruffenach, brought me back to the re-opening of the Bi-Rite Marketin 1998.

At the time, we lived on 17th street and Dolores, just a block from the market. The book lists June 8, 1998 as the opening day of the market as it operates today. That would put me at about 3 months pregnant. Which, as I recall, makes total sense, because by the time I was in my third trimester and had little to no interest in cooking, many a take out dinner came from the Bi-Rite Market. Lucky me!

The book talks about creating community through food, and the relationship the owners and his family had throughout the years with the neighbors. I experienced this day in and day out, whenever I went in to buy some meat or fish or prepared food, the people behind the counter always recognized me and knew what I was going to ask for before I even asked for it. From the outset, the atmosphere was always inclusive, never condescending and truly inspiring. It was a new take on an age-old traditional local grocer: organic, locally produced foods, where you might pay a little more, but what you got was well worth the investment.

My baby's first solid food (other than rice cereal and cheerios) was a piece of Bi-Rite's roasted chicken. I think that kid ate more Bi-Rite meals than I did in her first few months of solids. It was a good routine: walk down the hill from work, pick up some delicious food, walk the block home and enjoy. Did I also mention that the job I was walking home from was through a random connection that was made in front of the prepared foods case at the Bi-Rite?

I was in the market one afternoon, with my baby in her stroller. A woman approached me, said she liked my shoes and mentioned she had a baby about the same age as my girl. We talked for a bit longer, during which time she asked what I did for a living. At the time, I was managing trade shows, and told her this, and proceeded to ask her what she did. She had just launched an ecommerce start-up that was looking for some people and would I want to send her a resume. Email addresses were exchanged, communication ensued and I eventually became employed by a woman I met at the Bi-Rite.

So, yes, for me, creating community through food holds a special meaning in my heart when it comes to Bi-Rite. And, the book is organized in such a way that it's as if you're going on several visits a week to the store. You can read about pantry staples, locally sourced cheese, wine and produce, as well as get some awesome recipes for all of the above ingredients and more. The book presents the recipes within a story about the ingredients and why the buyer may have chosen to bring a particular variety of a fruit or vegetable into the market. It's written as a whole piece, not just story-then-recipe-then-story. It's more about the nature of how you might shop if you were to shop for your ingredients each day (which I love to do), versus how to make a meal in 30 minutes or less.

There is a definite need to know how to get good food out to the table quickly. This book does an excellent job of explaining how to get the best ingredients into those simple (and also the not so simple meals) and to give you an appreciation of what it took to get that carrot onto your plate. I'm a very busy single-parent who loves to cook and sees the benefit in buying the best ingredients I can, so this book is for me.

In closing, I'd like to share the recipe from page 162 for Brussels Sprouts with Pistachios and Warm Bacon Vinagrette. I made this the other night and was thrilled with the results. I've never used raw brussels sprouts (nor the super fine slicing attachment on my food processor), but I most certainly will do so again.

Brussels Sprouts with Pistachios and Warm Bacon Vinagrette

recipe from Bi-Rite Market's Eat Good Food, by Sam Mogannam and Dabney Gough, with photographs by France Ruffenach

copyright 2011, 10 Speed Press

Ingredients:

  • 1 1/4 pounds Brussels Sprouts
  • 6 thick slices Bacon, cooked crisp and crumbled
  • bacon fat drained and reserved
  • Extra-virgin Olive Oil, as needed
  • Freshly squeezed juice of 1 Lemon
  • 1 1/2 tablespoons Sherry Vinegar
  • 1 small Shallot, minced, about 1 tablespoon
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons minced Garlic
  • 1/4 teaspoon Honey
  • Kosher Salt
  • 1/4 cup lightly chopped toasted Pistachios

Method:

  • Peel off and discard the darker outer leaves of the sprouts and trim any discolored areas from the stem ends.
  • Cut the sprouts in half lengthwise. then silce them crosswise very thinly - about 1/16 inch.
  • Alternatively, you can use a food processor fitted with the slicer attachemtn, but the cuts will not be as clean.
  • Transfer to a large heatproof  bowl, add the bacon, and set aside.
  • Measure 1/4 cup of the reserved bacon fat into a small pan and warm over low heat until liquefied(if you don't have enough bacon fat, make up the difference with olive oil).
  • Remove from the heat and whisk in the lemon juice, vinegar, shallot, garlic, honey, and 1/4 teaspoon salt.
  • Drizzle the dressing over the brussels sprouts and toss well.
  • Taste and season with more salt as necessary.
  • If you have time, let the sdalad sit out for 30 minutes or so before proceeding--in this time, the dressing helps the sprouts soften a bit.
  • Just befor serving, top witht he toasted pistachio; if using the horseradish, use a microplane grater to shave a little over the top as well.

Anchovy Butter...Yes, That's Right. Don't Tell Your Friends.

I don't care what that darned groundhog said, Spring is in the air. At least, more colorful veggies are starting to show themselves at my farmer's market.

The almighty radish is beginning to be featured at my house. I recall a few years ago, at my sister's house in NY in the summer, that she served a simple appetizer. It consisted of sliced radishes with butter and salt on the side. The crisp astringent radish against the soft, sweet and salty butter was a revelation.

Not sure why, but I've waited these years to try and recreate this, with my own twist, of course. I decided that instead of putting the salt on the side, I'd incorporate it into the butter spread.

Anchovies were the first thing that came to mind. Unless I'm dealing with a vegan or vegetarian guest, I oftentimes sneak some anchovy paste into my cooking. It's salty and earthy and adds another level of taste that I can't seem to get using anything else. There are way too many people I know who are incredibly squeemish about anchovies. I can't figure out if it's their little fishy bodies, the smell of them, or just the strong taste when they are eaten alone. Either way, I tend not to tell my friends (or daughter) when I'm using them, unless I'm sure I'm dealing with a 'chovy lover.

Radishes, carrots, toast points and other crudites make a great vehicle for this butter spread. But, I'm thinking ahead to next week's dinner, and know that I will save some to use on a steak. It'll make it just that much better.

I encourage you to make this butter, portion it out for serving and use it on as many things as possible. Get creative and remember, don't tell your friends there are anchovies in it, or they may not eat it!

Anchovy Butter

Ingredients:

  • 4 Anchovy Filets, drained of their oil
  • 1 stick Butter, softened slightly
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground Black Pepper
  • 1/2 juice of a Lemon
  • 1/2 teaspoon Capers, drained

Method:

  • Place all of the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor.
  • Pulse until the mixture becomes creamy and the anchovy filets have been chopped up so small you can't even see them.
  • Serve with raw vegetables, over steak or simply on toasted baguette.
  • Stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator, the anchovy butter should keep for up to a month.